Find the leak point before you order hose length
A wet boom is a diagnosis, not a hose length. Pinholes, weeping couplers, rod seals and a tank that rains oil each have a different next part. Replacing the shiny hose and leaving a scored rod or a 90-degree fitting in a tight bend repeats the leak on the next shift. This page is how to read the leak before you order.
Where the oil actually leaves
Clean the area, run at operating temperature, and watch. A hose that mists at a bend is often too short or the wrong spiral rating. A coupler that weeps is a face or an O-ring, not 200 mm of extra hose. Oil tracking down a boom from the valve bank is not a bucket cylinder. Photograph the routing and the ferrule stamp — dash size, thread and angle live on the fitting, not in the operator's memory.
Pressure, temperature and bend radius
Copy the working pressure and the hose spec from the old layline. A one-wire hose in a two-wire circuit will balloon. Temperature near an exhaust or a turbo needs a different cover. Bend radius that is tighter than the spec kinks the wire and fails at the ferrule. Do not 'make it fit' with an extra 90 if the book shows a straight.
Cylinders and the tank
A rod that is pitted will destroy a new gland. Measure and decide whether the cylinder is a reseal or a rod. Tank breathers that are clogged push oil past seals that are still good. If several hoses failed in a month, look at clamps, abrasion sleeves and whether the machine is used as a hammer without the circuit for it. Contamination in the oil is a filter and a cause, not only a new hose.
- Clean, run hot, and photograph the actual leak point
- Copy layline spec, dash size and fitting thread from the old hose
- Respect bend radius and pressure rating
- Inspect rods and breathers before you order only hoses
- Send OEM ferrule marks and make/model when the routing is unique
Quick couplers and dust caps
A coupler that weeps is a face, an O-ring or a half that was never the matching series — not 200 mm of extra hose. Dust caps that were left in the mud become the next leak. Match series and size from the old half, not from a bin of 'standard ISO' couplers. If oil tracks down a boom from the valve bank, do not replace the bucket cylinder hoses as a ritual.
After a hammer or breaker job
Machines used as hammers without the circuit for it cook hoses and breathers. If several hoses died in a month, look at abrasion sleeves, clamps and whether the auxiliary circuit was ever fitted. Contamination in the oil is a filter and a cause, not only a new hose. A pitted rod belongs on the quote next to the gland kit. A hose that is too short fails at the ferrule; too long saws on a guard. Clean first, then watch hot.
Wear parts and undercarriage are not hydraulic jobs. The construction pillar is the hub for duty. Browse construction parts or model search when the machine is listed. SEROC quotes from the ferrule stamp or the SKU.
Workshop sequence
Clean the leak area, run at operating temperature, and watch where oil actually leaves. Copy layline spec, dash size and fitting thread from the old hose — not from memory. Respect pressure, temperature and bend radius; do not add an extra 90 to 'make it fit'. Inspect the rod for pits and the tank breather before you order only hoses. Match coupler series from the old half. If several hoses failed after breaker work, look at the auxiliary circuit and abrasion sleeves before you blame a batch. Photograph routing and the ferrule stamp. Send make, model and those marks when the run is unique to that serial.
What to send instead of 'need hoses'
A photo of the leak point after a clean-and-run-hot, the layline text, dash size, fitting thread and angle, and whether a breaker was on the circuit. Length is last. If the rod is pitted, say so on the same email as the gland kit. If breathers are clogged, hoses will keep dying after you replace them. Coupler series from the old half beats a bin of 'ISO' extras. That pack is enough to quote even when construction-parts has few SKUs listed.
A one-wire hose in a two-wire circuit will balloon even when the length is perfect. Temperature near an exhaust needs a different cover. If oil rains from the tank, fix the breather before you rebuild every cylinder on a guess. Send make, model and the ferrule stamp together so routing unique to that serial is not guessed from a generic dash-size chart.
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